Enter: the curb idea. It was so simple at first. "Hey! Why don't we put in a concrete curb like you see at the park! That way we can make it into any shape we want!". Poor, dumb people.
Professional curb installers use what is called a "curb extruding machine". Sadly, no where around these parts rents one. This left us to figure out how to do it on our own.
Supplies:
4x8 Hardboard: Have the people at Home Depot or Lowes cut it into 6" (or whatever height you want your curb to be) lengths. You get 8-8' pieces out of each 4x8 sheet. You need enough to go the length of the curb times two.
Concrete (27 bags at around $2.70 a piece)
Concrete mixer ($25 rental)
Water
Wooden stakes
Screws (any kind will do)
4x8 OSB: cut to size for spacers ($8)
Pam cooking spray
Flat head shovel
Broom
Concrete curber
Concrete scorer
Concrete float
Garden hose
Several helping hands: we did it with 4 people, but 5 would have been nice
Beer!
Overall cost of project (with borrowed tools): around $125
First you want to mark out your border. The easiest way to do this is to lay an old garden hose on the ground and shape it until you are happy with how it looks. I would advise to keep your curves large and smooth. Avoid sharp turns, as the hardboard may crack when forced into extreme angles.
Next, take a flat shovel and begin smoothing out the area, following the shape of your garden hose. Once you have smoothed out the shape clearly with the shovel, move the hose and go over it one more time with the shovel.
Next hammer a few wooden stakes along the perimeter of your shape.
Depending upon how wide you would like your curb, cut a block of wood to use as a spacer. This will be the block of wood you wedge in between the front and back board as you go along, ensuring the curb is uniform throughout. In our case, our curb was 4 inches wide and 6 inches tall. So our spacer was 6" tall and 4" wide.
Attach your hardboard to your steaks using screws. Make sure you place your spacers as you go along. We would adjust the position of our steaks and hardboards to ensure a snug fit with our spacers.
Once you have your curb outlined with steaks and hardboard, with spacers placed throughout,it's time to bust out the Pam. That kitchen helper isn't just for pans you know. Spray the inside of your form generously with pam. This will ensure the forms separate from the curb cleanly. Now you can begin the concrete process.
We rented a cement mixer from home depot, and with the help of a friend with a truck we brought it and 27 bags of concrete mix home.
Trent began mixing the concrete following the directions on the bag. This was how he spent hours of his day. Once a batch of concrete was mixed, we dumped it into a wheelbarrow and trucked it over the the edger.
We had to work fast as it was another hot day (which is everyday between March and November) and the concrete was setting fast.
At this point you should lightly brush the top with a broom to create a texture. This gives the concrete a more pleasant appeal, and creates a non slip surface. Since the kiddos would be playing on the curb, this was very important.
Make sure that every two feet you score your curb. This means creating a line indentation along the top. When dry, concrete wants to crack. It needs to crack as part of the settling process. Creating score marks gives the curb a place for pressure to be released and crack if it needs to.
Keep your forms on and concrete wet according to your concrete bag instructions. For us, we watered it multiple times a day for 48 hrs. This allowed it to cure nice and strong before we took off the forms.
Right after we removed the forms.
Look! A concrete playground edger!!
After all that hard work, when the weed cloth was laid and the mulch poured in, it was worth it!
Before:
After:
It was an all day project, and it sure left us sore the next day. But in the end we had a nice safe place for the kids to play. Worth it.




















